发布时间: 2019-12-13 23:19:55|六合波板 来源: 百度国学 作者: 聂宏康


  Julien Tornare agrees with the industry view that Zenith’s star has not been as high as it should be. The Swiss watch brand, founded in 1865 and named after the highest point in the sky, has been respected, loved even, by watch aficionados, but remains largely unknown to the general public.

  “When I took the job, I knew the brand was beautiful,” said Mr. Tornare, sitting in his office on the Zenith stand at Baselworld in March. “But it needed a real turnaround.” The garrulous 46-year-old became Zenith’s chief executive two years ago, after a 17-year career at Vacheron Constantin.

  “I wasn’t interested to take a brand that’s already here,” he said, moving his right hand to chest height. “Of course, when you drive a big brand it’s great for your ego and your self-esteem. But what I really wanted was to take a brand that’s here — and take it there,” he said, raising his hand to head height to indicate growth.

  Over the last 20 years, Zenith has been reborn a number of times. In the 2000s, under Thierry Nataf, it embraced the excesses of the years before the 2008 global downturn. Then, under Jean-Frédéric Dufour (now leading Rolex), it became more conservative — or, in Mr. Tornare’s estimation, “Calvinist” and “not sexy.”

  In 2014, it came under the control of Jean-Claude Biver, the watch industry’s great energizer over the last 40 years, when he took over the watch division at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. And for a brief time — between the departure of Aldo Magada in January 2017 and the arrival of Mr. Tornare at the brand’s Le Locle, Switzerland, headquarters that April — Mr. Biver served as Zenith’s interim chief executive.

  Mr. Tornare said he had been greatly influenced by Mr. Biver, whose ability to align luxury brands with mainstream marketing strategies revived the fortunes of Blancpain, Omega and, most famously, Hublot. Since taking the helm Mr. Tornare has dipped into Mr. Biver’s playbook, introducing a number of mainstream ambassadors to Zenith, including the American rapper and record producer Swizz Beatz and the Hong Kong actor and singer Eason Chan.

  He hopes the marketing strategy will stimulate growth. LVMH does not detail revenues of its individual brands, but the Swiss investment bank Vontobel estimated Zenith’s 2018 sales at 110 million Swiss francs (almost 8 million) — which was significantly less than estimates for its LVMH stablemates: TAG Heuer, 810 million Swiss francs, and Hublot, 625 million Swiss francs.

  “I inherited a brand with a long history that was very attuned to the past,” Mr. Tornare said. “It was just repeating everything, re-edition after re-edition.”

  As part of his effort to break that cycle, Zenith in March introduced the Defy Inventor, a watch with a groundbreaking single-piece silicon escapement that oscillates at 18 hertz rather than at the typical 4 hertz, improving the movement’s precision.

  He also reversed a 2017 brand decision to sell the technology behind the regulating system used in the brand’s Defy model (no one had taken Zenith up on the offer, he said).

  But some of that hoped-for growth won’t come from adding women’s watches to Zenith’s current line of men’s-only models — even though, Mr. Tornare said, around 25 percent of Zenith’s sales are to women.

  “I don’t believe in making a ladies’ watch,” he said. “I think it’s wrong. When I was a kid, there were cars for men and cars for ladies. It doesn’t exist anymore. Many men drive Mini Coopers, and many women are driving big S.U.V.s and sports cars. It’s the same for watches. I think only-for-men and only-for-women is a past model.”

  Mr. Tornare, however, acknowledged that he had been worried about millennials and said the industry had a challenge to persuade them to buy mechanical watches. (Zenith makes only mechanical watches; Mr. Tornare confirmed that there were no plans for a connected watch. “Our customers would hate that,” he said.)

  The brand’s current annual production is around 21,000 pieces, and Mr. Tornare said he was considering increasing that output to 25,000 or more. But, he said, it was more important to increase average prices, although he wanted to be cautious about making the watches too expensive.

  “Brands over the last couple of decades have surfed on the first wave of Chinese, and they’ve been selling pieces that were outrageously expensive,” he said. “That’s how they also lost ground with the local clientele. I believe our psychological sweet spot is around 10,000 Swiss francs.” He said Zenith would continue to produce high-end complications and to carry entry-level pieces from around 5,000 Swiss francs.

  Talking about the future, Mr. Tornare recounted a conversation he had at the 2018 Baselworld watch fair with a wealthy 27-year-old Chinese entrepreneur who said he was not interested in buying the kind of high-value watches that his father had bought.

  “This was very interesting,” said Mr. Tornare, who spent his last six years at Vacheron Constantin as head of its Asia-Pacific division. “It’s so true. The Chinese want a watch of their time. They want not to feel cheated; they want to pay the right price, and they want authenticity and content.

  “He said to me that everything in his generation was fake and always in the virtual world,” Mr. Tornare added. “When you buy an object, you want to know it’s genuine and there’s content and substance. This is why at Zenith we want to keep 100 percent of our watches with a Zenith movement.”

  How did he square ambitions of authenticity with marketing his brand around celebrity rappers and actors?

  “It’s very easy. Just because you are an authentic manufacture, somewhere in the Swiss mountains, doesn’t mean you can’t be cool and contemporary, and give a cool image of the brand. It goes together. No problem,” he said. “Just because you have 154 years of heritage doesn’t mean you have to dress like a grandmother.”

  And, Mr. Tornare said, the brand will introduce a new marketing campaign this year. “We won’t tell you you need to play tennis like Roger Federer, or that you need to break the rules to be a cool guy, or that you’re going to give your watch to your son,” he said, referring to the Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe marketing themes.

  “These are great campaigns, but we tell you that you are given your life to do something with. This is what Zenith is.”



  六合波板【之】【后】【的】【两】【天】【里】,【一】【切】【看】【上】【去】【都】【风】【平】【浪】【静】,【既】【没】【有】【爆】【炸】,【也】【没】【有】【恐】【怖】【威】【胁】,【似】【乎】【什】【么】【也】【没】【有】【发】【生】【一】【般】,【但】【是】【陈】【默】【和】【托】【尼】·【斯】【塔】【克】【都】【知】【道】,【这】【只】【是】【暴】【风】【雨】【前】【的】【宁】【静】【罢】【了】! 【阿】【尔】【德】【里】【奇】•【基】【利】【安】【的】【庄】【园】**【已】【经】【暴】【露】,【虽】【然】【他】【果】【断】【的】【提】【前】【撤】【离】【了】【所】【有】【人】【员】【和】【设】【备】,【但】【是】【并】【不】【意】【味】【着】【他】【会】【放】【弃】【原】【本】【的】【计】【划】【和】【野】【心】,【为】【免】【夜】【长】【梦】

  “【老】【爷】,【是】【刘】【墉】【与】【王】【杰】【两】【位】【大】【人】。”【小】【冰】【说】【道】。 【和】【仇】【听】【后】【笑】【了】【笑】,【没】【有】【再】【多】【说】【什】【么】。 【过】【了】【好】【一】【会】【儿】,【和】【仇】【又】【笑】【着】【问】【道】:“【那】【么】【我】【落】【了】【个】【什】【么】【罪】【过】【呢】,【天】【下】【人】【都】【知】【道】【我】【和】【某】【人】【闪】【了】【吗】?” 【小】【冰】【也】【笑】【着】【对】【和】【仇】【说】【道】:“【老】【爷】,【嘉】【庆】【帝】【封】【锁】【了】【关】【于】【老】【爷】【的】【所】【有】【消】【息】,【朝】【廷】【里】【只】【有】【刘】【墉】、【王】【杰】、【朱】【珪】【三】【位】【大】【人】【知】【道】【老】

  “【呵】【呵】,【算】【了】,【都】【过】【去】【了】!”【叶】【云】【逸】【笑】【了】【笑】,【心】【结】【化】【开】,【往】【事】【已】【如】【云】【烟】,【便】【没】【有】【继】【续】【说】【下】【去】【了】。 “【兄】【弟】,【不】【带】【你】【这】【样】【大】【喘】【气】【的】【啊】,【怎】【么】【说】【一】【半】【留】【一】【半】,【你】【到】【是】【继】【续】【说】【啊】,【什】【么】【你】【的】【孩】【子】,【第】【一】【个】【生】【灵】【啊】,【到】【底】【是】【怎】【么】【回】【事】【儿】【啊】?”【被】【吊】【着】【胃】【口】【的】【郭】【峰】【有】【些】【着】【急】【的】【追】【问】【着】。 “【死】【疯】【子】,【你】【什】【么】【时】【候】【变】【的】【这】【么】【八】【卦】【了】

  【中】【午】,【显】【然】【马】【芸】【母】【女】【是】【不】【会】【那】【么】【快】【过】【来】【了】,【依】【然】【只】【有】【甘】【薇】【恩】【跟】【郭】【子】【臻】【两】【个】【人】【吃】【午】【饭】。 **【里】【许】【多】【人】【一】【天】【吃】【两】【顿】,【或】【者】【一】【天】【吃】【一】【顿】,【还】【有】【的】【可】【能】【还】【吃】【不】【上】【饭】。【不】【过】,【甘】【薇】【恩】【没】【有】【这】【样】【的】【烦】【恼】,【自】【然】【顿】【顿】【吃】【香】【喝】【辣】,【一】【天】【三】【餐】【不】【变】。 【今】【天】【中】【午】【吃】【的】【是】【空】【间】【里】【的】,【郭】【子】【臻】【也】【很】【疑】【惑】,【甘】【薇】【恩】【到】【底】【是】【什】【么】【时】【候】【囤】【积】【那】【么】【多】

  ……六合波板“【呼】【呼】【呼】……” 【手】【链】【在】【天】【空】【当】【中】【不】【断】【的】【来】【回】【滑】【落】,【慢】【慢】【的】【回】【到】【了】【王】【月】【小】【姐】【的】【手】【中】。 “【大】【小】【姐】,【这】【是】【怎】【么】【回】【事】”! 【这】【个】【长】【相】【俊】【秀】【的】【小】【子】【非】【常】【惊】【讶】,【似】【乎】【都】【已】【经】【无】【言】【以】【对】【了】。 【随】【后】【他】【不】【断】【的】【向】【着】【后】【面】【夺】【步】,【似】【乎】【已】【经】【非】【常】【胆】【怯】【的】【样】【子】。 “【你】【这】【个】【小】【子】【只】【有】【这】【样】【的】【胆】【量】【吗】?【而】【且】【之】【前】【咱】【们】【这】【些】【地】【方】【的】【弹】【药】

  “【你】【好】【先】【生】,【请】【慢】【慢】【睁】【开】【眼】【睛】”。 【李】【恪】【的】【耳】【边】【突】【然】【传】【来】【一】【个】【声】【音】,【他】【眼】【前】【的】【世】【界】【在】【快】【速】【崩】【塌】,【手】【上】【的】【法】【宝】【消】【失】,【忙】【碌】【的】【铜】【甲】【士】【兵】【消】【散】。 【怎】【么】【回】【事】?【又】【要】【穿】【越】【吗】?【李】【恪】【大】【惊】。【那】【颗】【珠】【子】【已】【经】【遗】【失】【在】【白】【蛇】【世】【界】,【我】【为】【什】【么】【还】【能】【穿】【越】。 【李】【恪】【突】【然】【感】【觉】【到】【失】【重】【感】,【眼】【前】【一】【片】【漆】【黑】,【什】【么】【都】【看】【不】【见】。 “【先】【生】,【请】【慢】

  【夏】【木】【和】【雷】【青】【叶】【跟】【着】【赵】【敏】【坐】【上】【车】【来】【到】【了】【一】【家】【看】【上】【去】【很】【有】【味】【道】【的】【餐】【厅】,【不】【过】【话】【说】【中】【华】【大】【地】【上】【的】【餐】【厅】【都】【沿】【袭】【了】【古】【老】【的】【传】【统】,【当】【然】【新】【式】【的】【餐】【厅】【也】【有】,【不】【过】【夏】【木】【感】【觉】【也】【只】【有】【这】【样】【的】【餐】【厅】【才】【能】【够】【彰】【显】【出】【中】【华】【大】【地】【的】【深】【厚】【底】【蕴】【来】。 【至】【于】【说】【三】【人】【为】【什】【么】【打】【车】,【这】【还】【用】【多】【说】【吗】?【他】【们】【都】【是】【出】【来】【历】【练】【的】,【沿】【袭】【了】【他】【们】【老】【祖】【宗】【的】【传】【统】,【身】【上】【没】

  【金】【螣】【用】【着】【冰】【凉】【的】【蛇】【头】,【蹭】【着】【淼】【淼】【的】【脸】,”【我】【没】【忘】【记】【你】,【天】【天】【想】【淼】【淼】,【想】【的】【心】【肝】【肺】【都】【疼】,【到】【了】【天】【外】【天】,【被】【事】【情】【缠】【得】【动】【都】【动】【不】【了】,【几】【次】【想】【去】【找】【你】,【女】【娲】【怕】【我】【给】【你】【招】【祸】,【不】【让】【我】【见】【你】,【看】【样】【子】【我】【还】【是】【给】【你】【招】【祸】【了】,【他】【们】【都】【瞒】【着】【没】【有】【告】【诉】【我】,【竟】【然】【敢】【伤】【害】【你】,【我】【一】【定】【不】【会】【放】【过】【她】【们】!” 【淼】【淼】【这】【才】【相】【信】【她】【真】【的】【来】【了】【天】【外】【天】,【当】【她】

  【夜】【色】【已】【深】,【季】【时】【砚】【坐】【在】【书】【桌】【前】,【看】【着】【旁】【边】【的】【文】【件】,【有】【些】【头】【痛】。 【这】【样】【的】【日】【子】,【真】【不】【知】【道】【什】【么】【时】【候】【到】【头】。 【曾】【经】【他】【梦】【寐】【以】【求】【的】【就】【是】【这】【种】【生】【活】,【可】【是】【如】【今】,【他】【却】【没】【有】【那】【么】【喜】【欢】【了】,【也】【并】【非】【是】【不】【喜】【欢】,【只】【是】【觉】【得】,【很】【累】【吧】。 【他】【抬】【头】【看】【着】【空】【荡】【荡】【的】【屋】【子】,【整】【个】【房】【子】【安】【静】【的】【出】【奇】,【外】【面】【也】【只】【能】【听】【到】【嗖】【嗖】【的】【风】【声】。 【他】【曾】【经】